Check europarts-sd.com. It is about $300 there.
The Sprinter EGR valve is nothing like the little plastic parts found in gasoline engines.

<P>hey Mendonsy thank you very much for replying. ya, a real eye opener on the cost. do you know anything about cleaning the existing one,and what I would use to do that,&nbsp;as some have recomended? It sounds like a bandaid on a bullet wound. If it is something that can work for 50,000 or so miles, I'll do it, but if replacing is the way to go, I'll bite the bullet. thanks!&nbsp;</P>

I know that it has been done, but that is about all that I can tell you about it. If you have to buy a new one anyway what do you have to lose? Just be sure that you can park it long enough to get the new one if it does not work out.

Once again thanks for replying, I've found a dealership in Texas that has an egr valve for $225.00 w/gasket, Berry Chrysler Dodge Jeep Sprinter. Also there is a turbo resonator eliminator that I heard about on yahoo sprinter group, It is available at europarts-sd.com. It eliminates the stock plastic Turbo resonator that has a tendency to split and is made out of aluminum. So I 'm going to give them both a try and see how they work, I figure they can only help, I'll let you know in a week or so.

Hey Mendonsy, I just wanted to keep you abreast of my progress. I checked out Europarts and they did have the EGR valve, but I ended up getting one from Berry Chrysler Dodge Jeep in Corsicana Texas, they had one for $225.00 with the gasget and free shipping. I think I found them on the Yahoo sprinter forum along with a long description about the whole EGR problem that people are having. I also found out about the plastic Turbo Resonators spliting and causing the truck to go to the limp home mode. As it turns out Europarts has an Aluminum Turbo Resonator Replacemant part that I purchased and have just put in today July 29th. After putting it in I drove about 60mi, and was able to keep the truck at 75-80 mph, with power going up hills also, with the split Turbo resonator I was barely able to stay with traffic and going up any kind of grade was very slow. I'll let you know in a couple of weeks if the truck is still running good. Like you said if I don't need the EGR valve just yet at least I have it on hand when I do. Thanks for all your help so far!!

Hey Mendonsy, and anyone else following my progress with my egr/turboresonator issues! Well it's been more than a month and the aluminum turbo resonator has worked like a champ!! I didn't put the new EGR valve on, but I guess i'll always have it in case the originall dies. Since putting on the new resonator piece, everything seems to have come back, all the power and performance, and there hasn't been any real noise that I was warned about using the new piece. If any one has been having the sudden loss of power issue certainly try the aluminum turbo resonator replacement first, I replaced it my self, very easy, and it can't hurt.

Another thing to keep a close eye on is the intercooler hoses. There have been some similar problems from a cracked hose. It takes some careful inspection to find the cracks. Carry a roll of duct tape just in case.

i wouldn't suggest wasting your money throwing parts at your truck, all you have to do is check for where the boost is leaking and replace that individual part, and as far as the aluminum "resonator delete" i have seen one installed on a sprinter and the hose kept blowing off the aluminum pipe, i had to put two clamps on the hose because the bead on the aluminum pipe wasn't large enough, the resonators do not go bad often enough to need a cure. the egr valves go bad because they are sticking sometimes because they are clogged with soot most of the time, there are no provisions for cleaning it reliably, i have also seen positioner signal errors with the egr valves. as far as the transmission service that was done at 100k miles, you should be expecting problems, the transmission service is required every 60k miles, there is reasons for this, since you did it at 100k there is probably an excessive amount of metal floating around in your trans fluid causing implausible speed sensor readings. ive seen sprinters with 350k plus miles that run perfect and ive seen neglected sprinters with 90k miles on their last leg, i suggest following your maintenance book, mercedes servicing is a little expensive, but mercedes major parts are very expensive

Hey Millman, and thank you also for replying to my issues. I don't know if you had read all of my entries here, but I did search everything out and it was in fact the turbo resonator. I don' know if you are aware that it is a two piece item that can separate where it is put together. Through the pressure of the turbo it pushed apart at the seam and I was loosing all kinds of pressure and it would send the truck into the limp home mode. I searched on the forums, and the aluminum replacemnt piece was recommended and it has worked like a champ. It hasen't popped off or anything. They do tell you in the instalation instructions that you must use their clamp and it must be tightened beyond a specified torque. I did what they said and it has worked fine. My transmission has worked fine since the valve body replacement, but when I bought the truck one of the selling features that the sales man was getting all wet about was (in his words) the fact that you only have to change the fluid once a 100,000 miles and then you don't have to ever change it again. Had he told me to do it at 60,000 I certainly would have done it. I bought the EGR valve but haven't used it since everything seem sOK for now. But thank you again for your response, these forums are excellent!!